Casualties on the Camino

The wonderful thing about being on the Camino is that we are all here for a reason. Most of us because we are struggling or broken or searching or know we need to heal. There is no need to pretend that everything is ok because who would be here by definition if it was? The openess is stunning and of course that is partly because none of us have to live with the consequences of 'living out' our openess, long term, with one another. We are all in the same boat. We know we are damaged. We want to heal.
Yesterday I met Francessca, who is from East Berlin (as it was). We met after walking 20km and then walked a further 18km together. She is my doppelganger- not in age, not in looks but in life experience with her man, who she is sadly divorcing. She is only 30yrs old, but has known many hardships that I have not; she was born in East Berlin when the wall still existed. At 8yrs old, her parents left everything they had worked for and moved to West Berlin-penniless. Probably similar to the asylum seekers in our country today. There they struggled terribly to make their way in life and less than a year later the wall came down anyway. Francessca's parents had no money to support her through University so she has worked for 10yrs as a waitress, alongside gaining a degree. It has been very very hard, particularly when her studies have not been detained by lack of ability but by financial resources. She starts as a teacher in Germany in August- a huge achievement for her. We walked out of Rabanal together yesterday, through rigged, arduous mountain terrain, which suited our discussion perfectly! I have never shared so intimately and explicilty with another woman so quickly. It was as if The Spirit descended and an amazing dance began.
We spent the night together in Acebo, at a parochial Alburgue, which for me, was the best yet. All you vicars out there think on this; every day this parish feeds and provides a bed for they don't know how many pelegrinos EVERY night. They welcome you in, provide a shower and then a 3 course meal with wine, all on a 'donation' basis. They then invite you to a service which is akin to Celtic Daily Prayer stuff, but it has been translated into every language in the world and you are handed a couple of sheets in your own language. It is RELEVANT to pelegrinos, it is in everyday language, it is accessible and different nationalities are asked to take part by reading out different sections of the service. Amazingly, I was given the most intimate 'God' part which was all about how God is my refuge and strength, how He turns my torments into amazing joys, how He knows me intimately, all my struggles and pains etc. The sense of dynamism in that Gothic church was nearly overwhelming. I am struggling to put into words something that was unifying, connecting, inclusive, life-changing and healing. By the way the churchyard was a complete mess and added to the beauty of the whole thing- these people were concentrating on WHAT MATTERED.
In the morning the hospitalderos had made breakfast for us all- yes it was the same old bread and jam but it was served with real coffee and the most incredible blessing for a 'Buen Camino'. Every person left with a hug or handshake as our hosts waited at the door as we went on our journeys- and each blessing was said in the language of each person- even Korean.
Tonight they do it all over again. May God bless them for the incredible, UNKNOWN impact they have on so many people's lives.
Much love, Katex