Topless in Tonteferrada!

Actually it is spelt Pontefferada, but that doesn't alliterate!
We left Acebos to the most perfect morning just as the sun was rising and the birds were chattering away. 1/2hr into the walk I spotted Dan and another chap just ahead so I hollered out 'Dan' and muchos hugging and greeting began. Dan was walking with a guy called called Lucas and I was with Francessca so all introductions were made and on we marched as if we had known each other for ever. My shoulders, post food poisoning, have been very painful and I assumed it was due to electrolyte imbalance, but they were getting no better with the passing days so I was having to stop every couple of kms, just for a few mins to relieve the deep ache.
Francessca had a painful knee,so with this information, plus my pains, Dan set off on a mission to sort out our problems via some holistic healing or physiotherapist. We arrived in Ponferrada and off he goes to 'turist info' and books us into an available osteopath who can see us both in the next couple of hours. We arrive en masse in this man's treatment office which is 4 floors up in an upmarket business block. The osteopath is in his 60's and seems not at all put out by the observance of 3 other people whilst he treats his patient. He took 2 hrs with Francessca, massaging her knee, leg, tummy and head. He seems to go into some sort of trance when he shuts his eyes and deeply focuses on his patient and then some time later pronounces a diagnosis that none of us comprehend. He uses all sorts of wierd and wonderful equipment including a heavy circular object that he places under her knee then mentions the word 'resonance'. Meanwhile the rest of us occupy all the remaining space in his office and I spend my time scrutinising his bookshelves to see what he reads in his spare time- a habit from Health Visiting and very informative about where a person is 'coming from'. He is widely read, with all the big names in alternative healing and psychotherapeutic practice in there, plus people like Coehlo. Francessca goes from pained expression to weeping as he sits in deep meditation over her. All very interesting and something I have never quite so closely observed before.
Eventually it is my turn and since he undoes my bra strap as I lie face down in order to massage my back, the  rest scarper to find some lunch.  I am left in the office of this man, just me and him, not speaking the lingo and just hope he is truly professional. Trust indeed. He spends much time massaging then disappears for some time, only to return with a phone in his hand, down which, a lady is speaking to me in English. She tells me that I am carrying all the weight of my troubles through my shoulders, which is why they are so tense and that there is something wrong with my stomach. I tell her he hasn't touched my stomach and she says she knows this and he is about to but he already knows there is a problem- he can tell by my feet! Then he asks me to turn over and there I lie baring all, hoping that he is not pervy, as he doesn't offer any covering for my breasts. He touches my tummy and goes into his deep meditation again- I keep peeking out of my shut eyes to see if he is secretly looking at me, but am relieved that not once does he give me a glance. He puts his big, circular resonance box on my tummy, asks me to open my mouth and says 'wow', then off he vanishes again.
He returns once again with a phone and this time I am told that I need to go and see a doctor as I have a 'mass' or something in my tummy and that I don't breathe deeply enough when walking!
I get dressed, pay him 40euros and give him a hug. Later Steve remarks ' I wish my clients would pay me 40euros to lie on my couch topless, then depart giving me a hug'! I suppose it is not a bad way to earn a living and you know what?- the osteopath had the most lovely shiny eyes as many men in their 60's do. I don't know if it is just me but men of this age have mellowed and there comes with this a feeling of safety and security in their presence.